Safety Gear

Skateboard / Scooter Helmets provide full coverage to the back of the head and usually have less ventilation than bicycling helmets. They are designed to take multiple blows before being replaced, whereas Bicycle helmets are designed to take extreme force from one impact, as in a catastrophic collision with a motor vehicle, and should be replaced after one accident. Look for a helmet certified to CPSC standards for Skateboarding / Scootering

To protect your head, ensure that you have a properly measured your head for the perfect fitting skateboard helmet. Regardless of the helmet brand you choose, well-fitting skateboard helmets should include protective padding, not shift around while riding, and fit snugly and low across your forehead.

Properly measuring your head for a skateboard helmet:

Take a soft tape measurer and wrap it around your forehead. It should rest just over your ears and eyebrows, as your helmet will rest low on your forehead. Keep the measure level from the front to back of your head. Don’t wrap it too tight or too loose.

If you can’t find a tape measure, repeat the above steps using string. Once you have it wrapped properly around your head, mark it and measure it against a ruler.

If for some reason you can’t measure your head, you should be able to find your head size using hat size. Check the tag on your favourite well-fitting hat – it will give you a rough estimate of the correct helmet size

Wrist Guards are worn to support and protect your wrists when skateboarding, which are very susceptible to injury if you wipeout. These pads offer shock absorption during impact. Wrist guards are fully padded on all sides, and their wrap-around Velcro makes them easy to adjust. Riders of all levels wear wrist guards to protect themselves from beginners to those learning risky new stunts and skate tricks.

Properly measuring for skateboard wrist guards:

While most wrist guards are adjustable, it is still very important to accurately measure your hand and knuckles to guarantee a solid fit. To measure your hands when buying wrist guards, use a soft tape measure to measure around the four knuckles at the widest point, excluding the thumb.

Consult the sizing chart below to find the best fit for you.

Knee Pads are crucial to protecting you during wipeouts or falls. Knee damage is one of the most common scooter / skateboard-related injuries, which is why knee pads are one of the most important types of pads. Knee pads are made of stretchy cloth material that attaches around the back of your knee with adjustable Velcro. The cap of the knee pad features either foam or a hard plastic shell to shield your knee from impact.

Riders of all ages and experience levels should invest in knee pads to avoid wrecking their knees. Knee pads are sold in sets of two, but are often also sold in combo packs that feature elbow pads and wrist pads.

Properly measuring for knee pads:

Well-fitting skateboard knee pads should not restrict your range of motion, which is why it is important to buy the right size knee pads. Knee pads that are too tight will be uncomfortable and will limit your ability to bend at the knee. To make sure you buy the perfect knee pads, follow the stops below to properly measure your legs:

Wrap a soft tape measure around the center of your knee. Measure around your outstretched leg, either at the middle of your knee (C), at the top (A) or at the bottom of your leg where the pad will rest (B).

If you do not have a flexible tape measure, try marking a string and measuring it against a ruler.

Consult the sizing chart below to find the best fit for you.

Elbow Pads are adjustable pads designed to protect your bones during falls or wipeouts. Elbow pads can be made of soft, dense foam designed to cushion your elbow during impact, or feature a hard shell of plastic to protect against damage. Today’s elbow pads are lightweight and flexible, allowing you to be safe and comfortable even in high-octane scootering and skateboarding. Elbow pads are particularly important when skateboarding. Elbow pads are sold in sets of two, but are often also sold in combo packs that feature knee pads and wrist pads as well.

Properly measuring for elbow pads:

Well-fitting elbow pads should not restrict your range of motion, which is why it is important to purchase the right size elbow pads. Pads that are too tight will be uncomfortable and will limit your ability to bend your arm. To ensure that you get the perfect elbow pads, follow the stops below to properly measure your arms:

Wrap a soft tape measure around the center of your elbow. Measure around your outstretched arm, either at the middle of your elbow (C), at the top (A) or at the bottom of your arm where the pad will rest (B).

If you do not have a flexible tape measure, try marking a string and measuring it against a ruler.

Consult the sizing chart below to find the best fit for you.


Riders can use a scooter of any size, but that doesn’t mean it will be safe and fun. You should never choose a larger scooter, hoping your child will grow into it. A large scooter will hinder your child’s progression and at times it can also lead to unnecessary accidents. You’ll want to make sure your child is comfortable on their scooter – take it for a quick cruise around the shop and see if it’s easy to control get on, off etc.

Big No, No

Whatever you do, do not buy a scooter that folds into two. We don’t recommend these scooters: they can be quite dangerous. For cruising around on your driveway or street they are ok. For any sort of tricks or terrain park riding, these scooters are not recommended.

How Do You Know Which Scooter to Buy?

There are several variable when choosing your child’s scooter for camp. Read on for more info!

As a rule of thumb scooter bars should sit around hip to waist height when standing on the deck flat-footed. If bars come up above waist height then the rider will have more difficulty in controlling the scooter and could ultimately lose control.

Types of Bars

Steel Bars - Stronger compared to aluminum bars, but also weigh more.

Aluminum Bars - Lightweight construction, and depending on the quality, pretty durable too.


Please note if the outer diameter of your bar is oversized or standard, as this will determine what clamp will fit. You should also note the inner diameter to determine which fork will fit, e.g. with or without HIC.

Width of Bars

Scooter riders have different preferences when choosing a width. A good hint is to choose a bar with the same width as your shoulders. If you`re mostly into technical tricks like barspins, choose a narrow bar. And if you`re more a big air and no hands tricks rider, then choose a wider bar. (Remember you can always choose a wide bar and cut it to your preference! )


Stunt scooters are usually lower than standard scooters. Choosing a height is also a matter of preference. Skilled riders often choose lower bars to gain stability and better control. A tip when choosing the right height is to make sure the bar reaches somewhere between your thighs and hip. Avoid making your bar wider than its height as this is considered unstylish by skilled riders and can be uncomfortable for transportation.


If choosing a bar with thread you should also have a fork with thread. Most bars without thread will fit on forks with & without thread. Most new bars are without thread for added compatibility.


You cannot use a bar with a cutout with SCS, since the SCS clamp will have nothing to tighten around. You can cut your bar, this will however void warranty. If a bar is without the cutout, we call it SCS-ready.

The more basic scooters come with 100mm or 110mm wheels for a low, stable center of gravity - pro riders tend to ride with 110mm. Most Scooters are made of similar materials to each other and have similar design and construction.

Wheel hardness is measured in durometers. Lower numbers indicate a softer wheel and higher numbers indicate a harder wheel. Durometer is denoted by the suffix “A” (example – 82A). The typical Scooter wheel is 82A. The hardness of Scooter wheels are most suited to indoor riding and outdoor, providing they are used on a smooth surface.


Bearings are the seven or eight balls at the center of each wheel. Each bearing has an ABEC rating that indicates the precision of their manufacturing.

The general ABEC range is ABEC-1, ABEC-3, ABEC-5 although bearings are not always measured in ABEC’s. Bearings don’t need to be cleaned after every use, but if they become wet, they should be cleaned and dried. Never lubricate the outside of a bearing because that will attract dirt and contaminants.

The Scooter Deck is where you stand and balance yourself while riding your pro scooter.

Most decks have a measurement of 4″- 4.5” wide by 19″ – 21” long. Be sure to choose the right size of deck for your scooter. Generally the smaller the rider, the smaller the deck within the above sizing parameters.

A decent to advanced scooters range from $99 to $450+. Price will range depending on brand, and level. In most cases you will get to choose from intro, intermediate and advanced.


A skateboard has three major parts: the deck, the truck, and the wheels. If you are unsure about the type of board to buy you can follow the guidelines below. You can purchase skateboards from our Store as pre-assembled complete boards; or you can purchase individual items from a local store to customize a skateboard of choice. Most skaters choose to customize their own board.

The classic skateboard deck is made from 7 plys of wood, usually maple, laminated together.

Decks are often decorated with graphics from the brand that makes them. Brands don’t really matter until you’re more of an advanced skater. Some companies have different shapes and “feel different” for different skaters.

At most skate shops you will be able to find ‘blank” decks that are super cheap. These decks are usually made in the same factory as the branded boards. You can then put any sticker you want on the board.

The important thing about the deck is it’s shape:


We generally recommend a board that’s 7.75-8.00 for our style of skateboarding. The wider the board, generally the more stability. However, like anything else this is all about personal preference. It doesn’t have too much to do with the height or weight of the skater.


This is the curve that starts at either end of the board and continues through the middle of the deck. This allows you to grip the board to perform tricks. The easiest thing to do is step on the deck at the shop (without trucks or wheels on it); so you get to feel how the board feels under your feet.

Other styles of decks like pool boards, long boards, or ‘old school boards’ are super cool. Sometimes these shapes will be okay at camp, but to get the most out of our program, we recommend the New School shapes discussed above. Skateboards are generally not chosen based on size or weight of the individual – it is all about personal preference. Nevertheless, we have outlined some size ranges here for our younger campers.

The truck should be made with aluminum alloy. The three important parts of the trucks are the baseplate, the hanger and the bushings. The bushing is the rubber pivot point where the truck turns the skateboard. There is a screw or kingpin that connects the pieces. The tighter the kingpin, the tighter the truck. The tighter the truck, the more stability.

The width of the truck should be fitted to the width of the deck. This is usually the same width or slightly smaller. Trucks that are too big can make doing tricks difficult. Trucks that are too small can limit your stability.

Skateboard wheels have two classifications: Hardness (Durometer – measured by an a-scale) and Size (Diameter – measured in mm). The harder the wheel the higher the number on the a-scale.

Vert Ridinginvolves steep bowls, curves and inclines. For Vert, riders will want larger wheels that roll a lot faster. Try 55-65mm wheels with a hardness of 95-100a.

Street Riding involves urban obstacles to perform tricks on or over. For Street, riders will want smaller wheels that are a little bit softer. To start we recommend 50-55m wheels that are 97-101a.